The Guitar Gallery Forums - The Guitar Legacy of Matsumoku

Q&A, discussion, and information for the labels covered by The Guitar Gallery (Specifically and exclusively guitars made by Matsumoku up to 1987)
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 Post subject: PLEASE help reassure me!
PostPosted: Wed 24 Sep 2014 06:12 PM 
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Joined: Thu 18 Sep 2014 10:08 PM
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I want to make certain that this is a SB1000 model. This is an early model (Serial # 088010), so I'm not sure if a few of the discrepancies are normal for that period. For instance, there isn't an LED to indicate the bass in in active mode. Also, the cable jack isn't recessed like other models I see. I also took a photo of the electronics and pickup. Can any resident aria experts tell if this is the original electronics or not? If you need better or additional photos, let me know!

Photos of the bass are here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jyf65tvrg1fmccl/AADDoOEZ7x1F2StENctizJJpa?dl=0

That said, this thing plays AMAZING! Playability is incredible and the growl this thing makes is sick! I love it!


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PostPosted: Wed 24 Sep 2014 09:09 PM 
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Joined: Tue 27 Oct 2009 02:53 AM
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Location: Strailya
No idea what photo's you've been looking at, but that looks exactly the way it should.
Early Bat ear models do not have the Led or the jack recess.
A bit of research on Google images for example goes a long way.
Alternatively, if its a bit easier for you, take a look on my site, there are plenty of SB pics & Catalogues showing the differences.
Obviously 2 of the tuners have been changed & possibly the jack.
What other model did you think it could possibly be.
Cheers.

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PostPosted: Wed 24 Sep 2014 11:24 PM 
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I don't really think it's another model in particular. I'm just being paranoid about my purchase. I'm not an Aria expert, so I thought I would ask here for those with a much keener (and knowledgeable) eye. Glad to hear this is the real deal. The guitar is amazing.


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PostPosted: Mon 06 Oct 2014 12:44 PM 
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Joined: Wed 22 Nov 2006 09:13 PM
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One thing that does leap out is that nasty grub screw on the D string tuner, which probably explains why the E & A have been replaced. It goes like this...

If you tighten the locking nut/ferrule using a spanner & wind it so's it's tight, it causes the capstan post to bind, so extra effort has to be applied to turn it.
The 'ears' are an interference fit onto a splined shaft & the extra force messes that up so that the ear works loose & falls off.
That's fixable - either a horrorshow repair like the one in the photo, or something a little neater:

Image

I drilled right through the ear & shaft, applied a couple of small countersinks and then used a short nail cut to length & squeezed up in a vice to act as a cold rivet.
The other thing of note in the picture is the bit in the arrow's pointing to. The threaded part of the body has a section ripped out of it - caused by the post binding 'cause the nut was done up too tight. That's not fixable.

So... I'd recommend slackening all the retaining nuts right off & then wind them on until they're finger tight. Then apply the spanner but only give them a quarter turn or so - just enough to nip them up to stop them from working loose.

At the same time, check that the locking collars are backed off too (those things with the little hole in - they unscrew). They're a nice idea, but not really necessary IMO, plus they're a complete pain to use without the special little spanner

I got lucky on Ebay & found a suitable one IIRC it cost me around GB£20 - haven't seen one since... 5 years :o

Pete.

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