The Guitar Gallery Forums - The Guitar Legacy of Matsumoku

Ok you guys....I need help here on finding the right NOS replacement bridge and stop bar for a VLP510.
I mentioned before, I was going to get one. I did but it came nekkid no bridge or stop bar hardware at all.
I have seen go-toe. I have seen japa knees ones.
I have seen USA ones.
To my understanding the dimensions on our favorite Uncle's guitars were made slightly different for obvious patent or copy right infringement.
SSSOoooo which aftermarket company makes the right one??
The tunamatic bridge pin spacing on all my vantage guitars (FV-575, 790 Demon, and now the newly acquired VLP-510) all seem to be just ever so bit wider than the usual suspects from the big name LP guitar makers.
Also the pin diam is like .040 inches bigger than the big name LP guitar makers.

WHAT do I do?
ream out the holes on the bridge?
refill, relocate and re-drill the post holes in the body (that would truly be waaaayyyyy too much for me)
OR is there a magical place in matty-land that has NOS drop-in direct fit replacement parts somewhere on a shelf in a store, or in a box and I haven't knocked on the right door yet and ask to come in for a look..?

Any suggestions or direction or even just your thoughts on this would be appreciated...
BTW if This post belongs in another section , my apologies up front, but I thought I could run this by the select guru's here associated with the senior members first.
Thanks,
Grams.

The guitar in question from my previous post.
Its not in bad shape at all.
It needs a little TLC, but whom or what doesn't after 37 years.
This particular one came out of Columbus Ohio from a mom and pop pawn shop.

The Matt guitars - and most if not all Japanese guitars - will be in metric measurements and the American ones will be Imperial.

Gotoh gear should fit straight on, eh; I changed the tuners, the TOM bridge and tailpiece on my LC 440 and the Gotoh stuff did exactly what it said on the box!

Thank you Corsair!!!!!!!
I wasn't too sure about what to do....other than become the butcher of this new acquisition!
Do not worry lads as I have ordered a go-toe TOM bridge assy....AND its here!!! even better
Gotta love Stewie Mac!!!

So now it's time to put everything together.
Once I getter going, it will be time to take everything apart again, and (I'm not liking this part)... sand the snot out of it so I can getter down to the wood, or almost naked enough to have my auto body shop friend of mine refinish it with all the goodies and clear coats stuffs. Sorry but Im not at all comfortable in pointing any flame at this one to remove the old finish.

I am waffling between staying wine red color, Chinese Red (base + clear) or with the ever so delicious candy apple metallic red (0000 grain metallic powder stuff) and after adding a teaspoon bit into the clear. A trick I learned a long time ago with a bump and scrape a friend helped me fix on my my 87 Chevy.

One more quick question though Guys,... I know that the usual suspects for finish is SUPPOSED to be polyurethane <----please correct me here if I am wrong..... BUT .. can I use lacquer? ...as in automotive paint finish like the pros use on cars??

The clear on my customs is an auto 2 pack which, off the gun, leaves an absolutely chrystal clear, gleaming finish; the actual paint used is also auto stuff, and the very best quality, too.

I hasten to add I don't apply it; I have a resident genius air brush bloke that does the paint work on my stuff - I know my limitations, eh!!

If you're going to repaint it in a new colour, you don't have to go to bare wood; you only have to have the surface as smooth as you can possibly get it, as your mate will no doubt blow a primer onto it anyway....

White LPs look really sexy....

Lots of people with tell you what not to use and maybe even back it up with some myth BUT, use whatever you like. It isn't going to make enough difference to notice.

_________________
Quality service since 3:00 last Tuesday

Over Red?! Yikes!
I personally think that covering up that grain is a crime.

_________________
Guitars: https://legend.barryeames.com
Music/Pix/Videos: https://getback.barryeames.com

Thank you for all your input guys. Interestingly, I never thought about white as a color to use, but I can appreciate my fellow Ontarian member in this forum from St. Kits.
Original wine stain clear coat "would be" the obvious finish if I am to keep to the aesthetics of staying with the original color. And yes, I will leave it up to my auto body shop buddies to do the spraying.
I will of course take ownership in the bull work of sanding and sanding, and even more sanding before it gets buffed to a glistening finish. Ummm I have seen a couple of videos about "drop-filling dints, dents and holes, but do I really have to...? I am hoping one of you guys might say something, and I will go with the tried and true advice of my peers in here, but if I don't do it like them pros at StewieMac....will it show if I scrub the sheeter out of them bumps and chips before I go and get
one....
hundred...
million...
dollars...
worth of clear coats...?
Please fellas. direct me as this VLP510 is in fact my first attempt at putting together what is supposed to end up being a work of art when it's done. I have no idea what to do, and then some, AND most of you that have responded to me queries have been down this road before.
Respectfully,
Grams
Newby Refinisher of Crazy Good Crafted Uncle Matty Guitars

*cough* *cough*



Drop filling is reallly only used when you're repairing the finish; sanding in your case should see the bulk of nicks and scratches disappear.

_________________
Guitars: https://legend.barryeames.com
Music/Pix/Videos: https://getback.barryeames.com