The Guitar Gallery Forums - The Guitar Legacy of Matsumoku

For some reason, the pics of the new neck, including the ones on the GFS site, make the headstock look longer then it actually is. It's much more proportional when your looking at the guitar live.



I feel the same way.

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

I did some dye testing on the heel yesterday. Based how it was going, I decided to go ahead with the rest of the neck. The first coat came out blotchy big time. The colour was right though.



I let it dry overnight, sanded the spots that didn't take with 120 grade and then the whole neck with 180 grade. I then wet the neck slightly with water before applying the second coat. It came out much better but I'll probably have to sand and apply one more time tonight to get it perfectly even.



The only area that just won't take the dye evenly is the edge of the headstock. I may have to go with my backup finishing plan in the event I can't get an even look there. I'll know tonight.

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

Got em in the other day... Very pleased... Love the even MORE vintage look they have with the cream covers...

Making some headway. Here are the highlights:

1) It took a while, but I achieved even coverage with the dye, especially around the edge of the headstock. I learned that the process is more of art than a science. I tried some Minwax water based pre-stain wood conditioner from Home Hardware but didn't notice any difference. Armed with 180 and 600 grade sandpaper, I sanded the tough spots with the 180 and then applied the dye, working it in with the 600. This did the trick and I'm happy with the colour and the coverage.

2) I returned the Valspar clears gloss black I bought from Lowes in favour of the following (from Hone Depot); Varathane Satin Clear for the neck, Zinnser shellac base primer/sealer for the back of the headstock and heel, flat black paint (rather than gloss) and gloss clear.



3) Started the pickguard lamination process by first cutting out a piece. I used a jig saw with a fine blade that's used to cut thin metal sheets.



Then heated and clamped to headstock.



I then drilled a hole for access to the truss rod, scuffed up the surface of the headstock and plastic with 80 grade sandpaper, glued and clamped.



The plan for today is to trim the excess plastic, finish the edges, touch up the edge of the headstock (with dye) if necessary, and apply the satin clear.

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

Making headway.









Lessons learned so far:

1) Weldbond will not bond plastic to wood. Household Goop works great.

2) Drilling large holes in the pickguard material can crack it. Small holes work fine and enlarge with a dremel.

3) Maple has to be sanded really well to take the dye evenly. This is an art rather than a science IME. The good thing is that the dye doesn't penetrate too deep (on maple) so it's easy to sand the areas that need it and reapply.

I'll be ready to shoot the satin clear tomorrow morning.

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

Im my experience, to drill larger holes like for tuners, i hand drill them with a very light pressure... Let the bit shave it away, dont force it......

All taped up and a couple of coats of satin clear applied. Shot two coats, 4 hours apart, no sanding to lay a good base. I'll be lightly wet sanding tonight with 600 before applying the third coat. The fourth and last coat will be applied tomorrow morning.

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

Looking VERY GOOD man.... I forget, did you see the neck i threw on my conrad over the weekend? It was a touch less involved..LOL

Thanks. I did see the pics of the neck you installed. Definitely not as involved however, I've always been a sucker for a challenge

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Mr. Lawrie Mann
Toronto, Canada

Haha, as am i..... Like my 1800s cornet that i bought over christmas break... Came covered in paint and all dinged up...now its a halfway decent looking horn....or the banjo that i just picked up... Busted headstock....LOL