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Q&A, discussion, and information for the labels covered by The Guitar Gallery (Specifically and exclusively guitars made by Matsumoku up to 1987)
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Nov 2022 12:54 PM 
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Virtuoso
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Before the scalpers and flippers get ahold of it. Looks to be in decent shape. I suspect it is just a finish crack at the nut.

https://shopgoodwill.com/item/154408459

I just realized this is the same guitar the flipper bid on. Looks like he never paid. Now maybe someone deserving will win it.

https://shopgoodwill.com/item/153167995


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PostPosted: Thu 03 Nov 2022 10:53 PM 
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Certainly glad to see that!

Would love to have the match to my 710b and that pup combination sounds amazing.... i might have to take a swing at it. Now to convince my better half that this 710 union must come to fruition!


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PostPosted: Tue 08 Nov 2022 12:26 AM 
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Nailed it!! $522 all said and done, i think i came out alright (soon enough i guess i'll know!).

Very excited to hear how she sounds! Really hoping those are the original mmk53 and 61 pups, it certainly appears that way! I've read several glowing reviews about that combo (thanks Barry!)

Plus the OHSC, which appears to be in decent shape. Booya! It's official...... i'm a Vantage man. Still not sure how it happened but it sure as did!

..........now i'm gonna have to sell my SG... stings a little, not gonna lie, many gigs played with her but i think i'm coming out of this a-ok! Gained a high quality instrument plus the ohsc and whatever extra cash i get from the SG sale, i'll definitely get more than $522 for it, lost a (probably not quite as good) high quality instrument plus non-ohsc. Worth the risk to me.


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PostPosted: Tue 08 Nov 2022 09:45 AM 
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That's a little better than what I gave for the PE-R60 and this is in the same class. Considering today's market that is not a bad price. I paid $400 for an 800 but that was person to person, not an auction.

And to boot the OHSC no less. If the pics are any indication of condition you didn't do bad at all. :love: Hopefully there are no surprises under the hood but those are usually easily corrected. And to boot a scalper/flipper didn't get it which is another plus.

Many thumbs up here! :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up:

I'd hold off on selling that SG. The real questions are will you miss it when it is gone and can you find another for the same price? For all but a couple of guitars I own I'd rather sell sex to fat stanky women with warts on the street corner than give up a guitar. :rofl:


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PostPosted: Tue 08 Nov 2022 11:43 AM 
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:rofl:

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PostPosted: Sun 13 Nov 2022 12:08 PM 
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The eagle has landed!!

And a beauty indeed! Everything works as it should and i'm pretty sure that the small crack near the nut is indeed a finish crack. I'm an absolute novice but it seems that one side of the crack is cloudy, like the finish has come off the wood slightly, the other side is flush. I can't feel the crack either. Any pro way to tell the difference?

Anyhow, haven't had time to change the strings so i can check the pups, will do in the next coupla days. The fretboard needs a good cleaning, anybody know the best cleaning solution for that? I'm not the best at keeping my instruments in great shape but i want to be better with it. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been telling these cougars of mine i'll be a better man!


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PostPosted: Sun 13 Nov 2022 11:31 PM 
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JoshRS wrote:
... i'm pretty sure that the small crack near the nut is indeed a finish crack. I'm an absolute novice but it seems that one side of the crack is cloudy, like the finish has come off the wood slightly, the other side is flush. I can't feel the crack either. Any pro way to tell the difference?

What you describe sounds like a finish crack but without pix it's just speculation on my part. Generally speaking, a fracture will follow the wood grain and a stress/finish crack can wander off in any direction and it is usually pretty obvious what has "flexed" to cause it.
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The fretboard needs a good cleaning, anybody know the best cleaning solution for that?

If there's finger jam (eww!) or divots, then scrape the wood, with the grain, using a single edge razor blade.
(note: you do not want to do that on a Maple neck! Just wash that lightly with warm soapy water and a toothbrush)
Follow with a fine grit sandpaper and/or #0000 steel wool (you'll also polish the frets as you go!). When done, apply a few drops of quality fret conditioner ("lemon" oil or similar) and rub it in with your fingers or a paper shop towel. Let it soak for a little bit then wipe it off and buff it until the excess is gone and the wood is dry and has a nice matte sheen.

p.s. #0000 steel wool does a great job but it sheds fine steel particles which will stick to the pickups. Be sure to cover them with some tape before starting.

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PostPosted: Tue 15 Nov 2022 01:09 PM 
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Thank you very much for the info, Barry! Finger jam indeed! Just need to get some sandpaper and fret conditioner. Think i can get that today in fact.

As for a pic of the crack.... i'm not gonna get a better one (and still haven't figured out how to post them anyway) than the one provided in the listing. Third pic in from the end. Let me know what you think.


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PostPosted: Tue 15 Nov 2022 01:39 PM 
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When I get a guitar that has not been maintained the first thing I do is attack the fingerboard. There is often a ton of toe jam up against the frets and between strings. I use Windex and a toothbrush first. If that doesn't do the trick I use denatured alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and a toothbrush to dissolve it and also leech some of the toe jam out of the rosewood. It may take several passes. I avoid scraping if I can. Letting the alcohol soak into the toe jam in between applications is a must. No sense in getting in a rush here. I can see scraping if there are divots in the fingerboard where the strings land but keep in mind that changes the dynamics of fretting. It equates to a mild scallop.

Once I have the fingerboard spic and span I apply a coat of bore oil (Roche Thomas RT61 Bore Oil) to the fingerboard. If scrubbing went to plan it will soak it up in no time and may require multiple applications. I know a lot of people use Dunlop 65 fretboard lemon oil but I HATE the smell (akin to Lemon Pledge). The stuff makes me sneeze. Bore oil will not accumulate and also keeps the strings in good condition. Strings last me a LONG time. I keep a terrycloth rag saturated with the bore oil and when I pull a guitar down to play it I give the strings and fingerboard a quick wipe. It also keeps your fingers from sticking going from one shape to the next. The bore oil is meant for woodwinds so it is safe to use on the fingerboard. I've been using it for better than 20 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Roche-Thomas-Bor ... B003B1KTGK

If there are divots in the frets a mild crowning is in order. I use a wide crowning file for this and afterwards polishing lengthwise across the frets to remove the file marks. I avoid steel wool because it is like sand on a beach, it gets into everything. 3M makes a sanding pad that doesn't shed. I also use a Dremel with a polishing cylinder when there is a lot of polishing necessary and use red rouge polishing compound. Remember to use a fretboard guard when polishing and don't get the fret too hot or it might melt the glue holding the fret in, quick intermittent passes with time in between for cooling. The frets can get hot pretty quick.

https://www.amazon.com/fret-protector/s ... +protector


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PostPosted: Tue 15 Nov 2022 01:46 PM 
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JoshRS wrote:
As for a pic of the crack.... i'm not gonna get a better one (and still haven't figured out how to post them anyway)


Below the post text input box is the option to upload an attachment. Choose the file, then click Add the file. You will be given the option to place the image "inline". Do so. When you submit the post it will place the image inline with your text.


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